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UNDERSTANDING PERPETUAL CALENDAR WATCHES

UNDERSTANDING PERPETUAL CALENDAR WATCHES

Obsessed with always knowing the date, as well as the time? What about knowing the months, leap years, moon phases and more? With a perpetual calendar watch, you have all the information just above your fingertips – in the form of the watch on your wrist.

One of the most beloved complications on the watch market, a perpetual calendar watch boasts a beautifully balanced dial design and a complex mechanical movement – often with several hundred tiny parts working together in unison to track and display a wealth of information.




In addition to tracking hours, minutes and seconds, a perpetual calendar watch tracks the day, date and month automatically no matter how many days are in the month. It also tracks leap years. Most also display the phases of the moon – sometimes in two hemispheres.

Even more astounding is the fact that most perpetual calendar watches on the market today – provided they don’t lose power reserve -- will automatically track this information until the year 2100 before needing an adjustment. That adjustment must be made by a watchmaker and is necessary only because we will be skipping the leap year that otherwise would have been scheduled for that year so that real time on the Gregorian Calendar properly coincides with solar time. The watch will need an adjustment on March 1, 2100.

Depending on the perpetual calendar watch you are looking at, the design of the dial will vary. Some use apertures to display the additional information and others use pointers or hands. The preferred method is apertures that enable quick and easy reading. Make no mistake, though. Just because watch brands have made the display of information easy to read, this is no easy watch to make.




Considered a high complication in the world of watchmaking, the movement inside a perpetual calendar watch has dozens upon dozens of tiny gears, wheels and levers that have a mechanical memory capable of tracking four years of information at a time. The disk-and-lever systems mechanically calculate the correct number of days in every month, including leap-year February.


It is no easy feat. The masters of perpetual calendar mechanisms design the watches to “think” that all months are 31 days, and at the end of the months with 28, 29, or 30 days, the disk-and-lever mechanical memory system communicates with the date wheel, which then skips through the unused dates. For watches with moonphase displays, disks with teeth on them keep the phases properly synchronized.

The entire mechanical marvel needs to stay wound and cannot run out of power reserve or the perpetual calendar displays will have to be reset. Having a watch winder definitely helps so that you can take your watch off for a few days but still have it winding appropriately

Perpetual calendar watches are different from annual or complete calendar watches.

Their early development is credited to British watchmaker Thomas Mudge who invented what is referred to as a detached lever escapement in 1755 – making perpetual calendar pocket watches possible. Still, other than Mudge’s watch, which is on display at the British Museum in London, watchmakers didn’t pursue the concept until Jules Louis Audemars (of Audemars Piguet) created a perpetual calendar timepiece in 1853 as his watchmaking school project. Some 22 years later, in 1875, Audemars and Edward Piguet unveiled a production perpetual calendar pocket watch with 48 months using a circular cam to account for the differences in the dates. That stirred more interest by other brands to create this complication.


Today, many of the top brands that build perpetual calendar watches often have patents on their mechanical systems or on their displays. Some brands also take the perpetual calendar concept to new horological heights by combining it with other functions or features, including astronomical indications, tourbillon escapements and more.

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OMEGA GETS EVEN SPEEDIER WITH REVOLUTIONARY SPIRATE SYSTEM

OMEGA GETS EVEN SPEEDIER WITH  REVOLUTIONARY SPIRATE SYSTEM

True Omega watch lovers will recognize the words “Speedy Tuesday.” It is a phrase that caught on back in 2012 when Robert Jan Broer of Fratello watches (a watch blog) posted a picture of his Speedmaster, which collectors often refer to as Speedy, on Facebook on a Tuesday and dubbed it Speedy Tuesday. Since then, the idea of posting about Omega Speedmaster watches on social media platforms on a Tuesday is referred to as Speedy Tuesday




Of course, the history of the
Omega Speedmaster goes
far beyond Speedy Tuesday.


In fact, the line of chronographs was first introduced 66 years ago in 1957. It evolved continually ever since. The Omega Speedmaster has the distinction of being the first watch in space on the wrist ofastronaut Walter Schirra in 1962 during his Mercury-Atlas 8 mission. Later, the Speedmaster was named the only NASA-approved watch for spaceflight. The watch waked on the moon during the Apollo 11 mission and helped time the re-entry to Earth’s atmosphere in the ill-fated Apollo 13 mission. The watch is also a fan favorite amongst race car drivers and is the line of choice for Omega when it comes to creating watches that honor the Olympics, which the brand times to the tiniest fraction of a second.




As such, it comes as no surprise that the biggest invention, the Spirate™ System, recently released is a huge deal when it comes to speed and precision. It is housed inside the all-new Speedmaster Super Racing watch. The new spiral is a mechanical advancement in watchmaking. It has a patent pending on it, and the mechanism allows for such ultra-fine rate adjustments that it is precisely accurate to 0/+2 seconds per day. This is a rarity among watches unless you are dealing in chronometers. Omega’s Co-Axial chronometers are more accurate than most chronometers at a deviation of no more than 0/+5 seconds per day. The new high-frequency movement (4Hz) in the Super Racing watch obviously beats Omega’s own records.


In fact, it is Omega’s expertise in chronometers that enabled the brand, along with the help of the Swatch Group’s technical resources, to reinvent the wheel (well, ok, the spiral). Years in the development stages, the Spirate™ System is combined with a new Si14 balance spring and an adjustment mechanism located on the balance bridge where the watchmaker can make the fine-tune adjustment for higher accuracy. The spiral is made from a single silicon wafer that is then processed using Deep Reactive Ion Etching (DRIE).



The Spirate System™ makes its debut in the Speedmaster Super Racing stainless steel watch in the form of the Co-Axial Master Chronometer 9920 movement. The watch is certified by METAS, the Federal Institute of Metrology, and is sold with a red METAS card confirming its precision of 0/+2 seconds per day.



Additionally, the 44.25mm stainless steel watch, with distinctive black-and-yellow color scheme on the dial (reminiscent of the Aqua-Terra Bumblebee watch released 10 years ago), features a tachymeter ceramic black bezel with yellow grand feu enamel scale, and chronograph subdials for 60-minute and 12-hour time tracking, as well as a central seconds hand. The hands and markers are also coated with SuperLumiNova that glows in bold yellow. The dial boasts a honeycomb pattern. This watch, antimagnetic to 15,000 GAUSS and is sold with a steel bracelet and a NATO strap made of recycled nylon and showcasing black and yellow stripes. The watch boasts a sapphire crystal case back for viewing of the state-of-the-art caliber.

We are pretty certain that Omega will begin equipping more of its Speedmaster watches with this new movement and Spirate™ System in the years to come.


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Chicago Cubs Announce CD Peacock as Official Jewelry & Watch Partner

Chicago Cubs Announce CD Peacock as Official Jewelry & Watch Partner

Partnership Includes Naming Rights to Wrigley Field's Premier Entrance and Sponsorship of New Ballpark Trophy Room

CDPeacock CUBS TUDOR

The Chicago Cubs today announced C.D. Peacock, Chicago’s first business, as the “Official Jewelry and Watch Partner” of the club and Wrigley Field. As part of the multiyear partnership, C.D. Peacock will receive naming rights to Wrigley Field’s Premier Entrance and will be the official sponsor of a new trophy room inside the ballpark which will house the 2016 World Series Championship trophy.

“We’re thrilled to add another historic Chicago-based and family-owned company to the Cubs family,” said Cubs President of Business Operations Crane Kenney. “Through this partnership and the creation of the new trophy room, fans will be able to view the 2016 World Series Championship trophy from inside Wrigley Field for the first time ever. We are excited to share this viewing area, and the creation of the Cubs jewelry collection, with fans this season.”

As the Official Jewelry and Watch Partner, C.D. Peacock will design custom jewelry pieces for fans to purchase later this season, inspired by all things Cubs and Wrigley Field. In addition, C.D. Peacock will serve as the presenting sponsor of a new “Cubs Player of the Month” award that will spotlight one Cubs player each month. The “Cubs Player of the Month” will be decided on by fans through a social media poll with the selected player being recognized during a game.

TUDOR BLACK BAY 39 S&G 39MM STEEL CASE, STEEL AND YELLOW GOLD BRACELET

BLACK BAY 39 S&G 39MM STEEL CASE, STEEL AND YELLOW GOLD BRACELET

Cdpeacock TUDOR CUBS

Left to Right: Vice Chairman: Steven Holtzman, President: Olivier Stip, Vice President of Marketing & Communications: Chelsea Holtzman-Lawrence, Vice President Retail: Adam Woitkowski

“We are proud of this historic partnership, unifying two Chicago institutions with deep roots to the community,” said C.D. Peacock Vice President of Marketing and Communications Chelsea Holtzman Lawrence. “C.D. Peacock and the Chicago Cubs are intertwined by what makes Chicago iconic; family, resilience, and the pursuit of greatness. C.D. Peacock is committed to our legacy of creating milestone moments and we look forward to continuing this tradition at Wrigley Field.”

More details regarding the new trophy room at Wrigley Field will be shared closer to Opening Day and details regarding the C.D. Peacock Cubs-inspired jewelry line will be shared later in the season.

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TAG HEUER’S CONNECTED WATCHES ARE ULTRA SMART

TAG HEUER’S CONNECTED  WATCHES ARE ULTRA SMART

It was eight years ago in 2015 that Swiss watch brand TAG Heuer unveiled its first “Connected” watch. It was a time when there were “traditional” watches and smart watches, but TAG Heuer was a leader in becoming one of the first “regular” watch brands to also go heavily into smart watches.

The investment into the category was huge – the brand even purchased a tech company to create its software – but that investment paid off big time and the brand has come a long way since then with its smart watch collection. We here at C.D. Peacock are proud to be one of the few authorized dealers in the area allowed to sell the connected pieces.

In a unique position to bring more than 160 years of watchmaking know-how to the table, TAG Heuer regularly draws inspiration from its rich past and its expertise in mechanical chronographs for new aesthetics for its Connected watches. The timepieces combine high-performance digital experiences with traditional watch cases, bezels and straps for a wonderful realm of reality.




The Connected watches are crafted in stainless steel or titanium with ceramic bezels whose sensors underneath align with the TAG Heuer-created sports apps.

In fact, TAG Heuer developed multiple functions for its apps for the Connected watches, including the aforementioned Sports App that tracks walking, running, jogging, cycling, swimming and more. There is even an app to track your golf game.




Ergonomically designed, the watches are highly functional and use crowns and pushers for many of the programs. The idea was to create watches that transcend age and culture, and that look like a beautiful, traditional watch without compromising on technology. Its most recent generation series, Calibre E4, yields one of the most elegant looks to date – paired with peak performance.

The Calibre E4 watches boast a larger crown, redesigned push buttons and come in two sizes: a thinner 42mm version or a sportier 45mm size. Even the screen has higher definition for easy readability. The screen options and Amoled dial displays are so numerous – ranging from dials that display a golf green, to cosmic-like designs and realistic watch dials – that they seem infinite.

Special versions include the TAG Heuer Connected X Porsche edition, the Connected Golf and more. The sensors include an ambient light sensor, compass, barometer, microphone, heart rate monitor and a host of other functionalities. You can even customize certain aspects of the Connected watches, which retail from $1,800 to $2750 depending on the version.



Growing the Connected watch portion of the business was an important goal for Frédéric Arnault, CEO of the brand, who took the helm in 2020 at the age of just 25.

Today, the brand’s Connected watch business continues to grow and TAG Heuer has even increased its digital presence with the introduction of a recently added feature that lets Connected watch owners display a photo of tehir NFT on the connected watch. The Connected watches are compatible with Wear OS 2, with updates coming soon.

Don’t feel daunted by the concept of a smart watch any longer. TAG Heuer has created the perfect blend of smart and sophisticated – along with great user friendliness. Stop in and go hands-on with our TAG Heuer Connected watches.


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Understanding Water Resistance

Understanding Water Resistance

We get questions all the time from customers wondering exactly how water resistant their watch is. “Can I shower with it on?” “Can I jump in the pool with it on?” The answers aren’t’ as easy as one would think. Just because a watch has the words “water resistant” on it, it doesn’t necessarily mean you can jump in the pool and swim laps or do some snorkeling.

water resistant chart

What matters most when is the depth to which the watch is water resistant. This is always indicated on the watch (if it is water resistant), sometimes in meters, feet, ATM (atmospheres) or Bar. Water resistance is all about how much pressure a watch can withstand before moister will get into the case or movement. Most water resistant watches offer anywhere from 30 meters to 600 meters of water resistance -- and even more for professional instruments -- depending on the watch.

 

water resistance

The factors that contribute to water resistance include screw-down crowns, O-rings and gaskets, screw-down case backs and more, depending on how deep the watch can go. To know what you can do while wearing your water resistant watch, you may want to understand the translations of the various methods used for indicating depth. To keep it easy, if a watch is water resistant to 10 meters, it equates to 33 feet, 1 bar or 1 ATM. Most water-resistant daily wear watches are water resistant to 30 meters, or approximate 1,000 feet, 30 Bar or 30 ATM.

Depending on the watch, you will find the “water resistance” depths indicated either on the dial or the case back. If your watch doesn’t say Water Resistant to a particular number, then it is not water resistant, and you should probably remove it when running through a rainstorm. In rare instances a watch may say water resistant but have no depth indicated. That usually means it is protected against humidity and might withstand the rainstorm but not a quick swim in a pool.

A quick rule of thumb for water resistance: A watch that says “30 meters” can withstand some splashing. One that says “50 meters” can withstand short swims in the pool or ocean. A watch that is water resistant to 100 meters can join its wearer in the water for a few hours and is safe to snorkel with. Once you hit water resistance to 200 meters or more, you can take the watch diving with you.

According to the Diver’s International Organization for Standardization (ISO), dive watches must meet the ISO 6425 standard (water resistance to at least 100 meters). Serious divers will want water resistance to 200 or 300 meters. The deeper the watch can go, the more professional it typically is, offering added features like dive-bezels that measure elapsed time under water, extension bracelets or clasps for fitting over a dive suit, helium escape valves and chronometer certifications.

TUDOR PELAGOS

Other important things to note when it comes to water resistance, is shock resistance. We don’t recommend diving off of a board into a pool with a watch that is just 30 or 50 meters resistant. The shock the watch receives when it meets the impact of the water, along with the immediate pressure change, could lead to potential damage. Similarly, we don’t recommend showering with a lower-depth water-resistant watch, because the abrasive chemicals in soap can lead to erosion of the rubber gaskets. We also recommend that when you have your watch serviced – by an authorized service retailer or facility -- they replace worn gaskets (even if they are just changing a battery).

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Understanding The Different Types Of Mechanical Watch Movements

Understanding The Different Types Of Mechanical Watch Movements

As the trend towards watch collecting continues to rise, we get a lot of questions from people who are trying to understand what powers a watch. Typically watches house either a quartz movement or a mechanical movement. (Some are also solar powered, but that’s another story.) Further adding a little confusion to the world of mechanical watches is the fact that there are two different types of mechanical watches: Self-winding (aka automatic) movements and hand-wound (manual-wind) movements. It isn’t essential to know how each of these movements works (unless you are watch fan), but it is important to understand the differences so you can make an informed purchasing decision.

While quartz watches are powered by a battery, mechanical watches consist of hundreds of tiny components all perfectly assembled to keep the watch on track. In a mechanical watch, the power source that keeps the hands moving and the functions operating comes from a well-orchestrated set of gears, springs, balances, bridges, barrels and more –all working harmoniously together – much like an engine in a car.

 

Watch Winding

The manual-wind (hand-wound) watch has to be hand wound regularly by the wearer to keep the energy flowing. It has a certain amount of power reserve built into it that will keep the watch working for a specified number of hours if you put it down, but it must be wound by hand by the wearer. Some mechanically minded watch lovers love the idea of taking a moment to wind their watch.

Automatic or self-winding watches have what is referred to as a rotor, or oscillating weight, inside the watch that helps to wind the watch itself with the movement of the wearer’s wrist. The rotor delivers the power to the mainspring, avoiding the need to wind the watch. Like a hand-wound watch, automatic watches have a certain amount of power reserve built into them (usually anywhere from 42 hours to two weeks). If the wearer puts the watch down for longer than the specified amount of time, he or she will have to reset the watch to the proper time before wearing it. However, as long as the watch is being worn, or is picked up again before the power reserve runs out, it will continually wind itself.

Some people prefer automatic winding watches to hand-wound for several reasons. One, of course, is the fact that they don’t have to remember to wind the watch, they just have to wear it. Another reason is the “feel.” Automatic movements have gold rotors, or at least heavy enough rotors, to wind the spring. Often, the wearer can feel the rotor moving with the move of the wrist -- reminding him of the mechanics inside. Some creative watch brands have even relocated the rotor so that the wearer can see it spinning on the dial-side of the watch, providing an attractive dance on the wrist.

Naturally, there are pros and cons to each type of mechanical movement, but people who love mechanical things often prefer to wear a mechanical watch with hundreds of parts inside. They don’t care that if they put the watch down for a few days or a week, then they may have to re-set the time before wearing the automatic watch again and they may also have to wind it (manual-wind watches). For many, that is part of the allure of a mechanical watch. Some environmentally conscious individuals also prefer mechanical watches over quartz watches because the quartz timepieces house batteries that will have to be disposed of.

mechanical movement

Mechanical watches will also require servicing – no matter which type of mechanical watch you prefer. This is because, just like a car, the movements consist of lubricants that can dry up over time. There are also gaskets that could need replacing. With advanced technology and high-tech materials such as silicium, that servicing is not nearly as frequent as it was decades ago. Most mechanical watches just need service about every five years.

There is no right or wrong about what type of watch you want to buy. It is strictly a personal choice. But if you would like to learn more about these two types of movements, or to hold the different types of watches in your hands, stop in to visit any time.

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How IWC Masters The Pilot’s Watch

How IWC Masters The Pilot’s Watch

Swiss watch brand IWC Schaffhausen has a long and storied past when it comes to pilot’s watches. This brand was the first, in the early 1930’s, to make its aviation watches impervious to magnetic fields that pilots would encounter when flying. They did this by adding a soft iron inner case around the movement so that the magnetism couldn’t affect the caliber inside. It also helped guard against temperature fluctuations. The ingenious concept garnered the brand international acclaim and made it one of the best-known names for pilot’s watches.

 

1930's pilot IWC

Of course, since the first IWC Pilot’s watch made its debut in 1936 in response to a request from the British government, the brand has come a long way. It always remained true to important military specifications over the years. In fact, in 1940, IWC unveiled the Big Pilot’s watch (which measured 55mm in diameter and was the biggest wristwatch the brand had made) in a limited edition for the German Air Force. In 1948, it created the now-legendary Mark 11 pilot’s watch with a NATO strap for the British Royal Air Force. Those early watches boasted shatterproof crystals, rotating bezels, oversized crowns and more.

IWC’s roots were inexplicably intwined with aviation and the brand has regularly evolved its pilot’s watches and now has a collection with a host of subdivisions that include the IWC Spitfire, Big Pilot, Mark lines, Antoine de Saint Exupery (author of The Little Prince), and the beloved Top Gun series that it began in 2007. In fact, the brand had struck a relationship with the elite United States Navy Fighter Weapons School, also referred to as Top Gun, and the first collection that carried the Top Gun name was the Pilot’s Watch Double-Chronograph Edition Top Gun. Today there are even several series within the overall Top Gun collection, as well.

TOP GUN IWC PILOT
IWC PILOT 2007

Not only is it important to IWC to create high-precision, high-functioning pilot’s watches for aviators, but also it wants aviation enthusiasts as well as current-day watch lovers to be able to wear its watches. As such, the brand regularly turns to high-tech materials that are rugged, lightweight and durable. This includes high-tech ceramic, which it recently unveiled in Woodland green and Lake Tahoe white in addition to black ceramic versions. Developing colored ceramic is no easy feat, and it takes months to research and create a new color of the ultra-hard material. IWC also has its own proprietary ceramic alloy material it calls Ceratanium and offers the IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun watch, and several others, made in this material.

Located in the German-speaking region of Switzerland, IWC also constantly continues evolving its designs and the movements inside to ensure they can go the distance. Recent standout watches in the IWC Pilot’s line up include the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41mm with a bronze case and offers several different pilot’s watches in bronze. IWC uses a bronze that is 50 percent harder than standard bronze thanks to a perfect mix of aluminium, copper and iron. This watch is particularly popular because watch lovers are intrigued by the fact that, over time, the bronze will develop its own unique patina.

BRONZE IWC PILOT
IWC PILOT

Because Pilot’s watches are highly functional, IWC offers everything from a clean and simple three-hands pilot’s watch to versions that incorporate navigational tools and other helpful functions, including chronographs, perpetual calendars, world timers and more.

Today, the brand continues to be affiliated with Top Gun, as well as with some other prestigious organizations that keep it in the forefront of aviation. Among those: the Antoine de Saint-Exupery Foundation, The Spitfire Academy, Airspeeder (electric flying racing cars), and others.

One little known fact about IWC that most don’t know (unless you’re a true watch lover): this brand was founded by an American, Florentine Ariosto Jones, who left Boston for Switzerland to find a way to commercialize production. The brand name: International Watch Company.

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Five Dazzling Diamond Watches For The Holidays

Five Dazzling Diamond Watches For The Holidays

With the holidays here, you may be searching for that perfect gift – for yourself or your loved one. Why not give the gift of time, and while you’re at it, dazzle her with diamonds. A watch is a perfect gift because it shows you cared enough to think about your loved one’s likes, style and even lifestyle. Adding a touch of sparkle is like icing on the cake. The watch doesn’t have to be totally blinged out. Sometimes a touch of diamonds on the dial or the bezel is all you need. Here, we take a look at five different diamond watches that could beautifully portray your love.

 

chanel

Chanel

For the woman who loves a classic look, you can’t go wrong with anything Chanel. This French brand first introduced the sleek J12 watch to the world in 1999, and it was an immediate hit. This 38mm Chanel J12 Diamond Bezel watch, which, like most things Chanel, can be found in white or in black, is crafted in high-tech ceramic and steel and shimmers thanks to the diamond-set bezel. It features 50 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 1.51 carats. The dial is white lacquer with 12 diamond markers. The watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 12.1 and is water resistant to 50 meters. It is sold with a white ceramic bracelet for a glistening statement in style.

Cartier

A legend in the world of watchmaking, Cartier has been creating timepieces of distinction for more than a century. This Santos de Cartier watch is an icon. Originally created in 1904 by Louis Cartier for aviator Alberto Santos Dumont who used to fly his dirigibles around the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the Santos watch went into production in 1911 and is coveted today in its many evolutions. This 18-karat yellow gold watch features a bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds. The watch is powered by an automatic movement and is water resistant to 100 meters. It is sold with two leather straps that are interchangeable without needing a tool.

Cartier
IWC

IWC Schaffhausen

A brand known for its exceptional pilot’s watches, IWC Schaffhausen puts great emphasis on its women’s watches, especially in the beloved Portofino collection. The all-new Portofino Automatic Day & Night watch in stainless steel is an absolute stunner. Measuring just 34mm in diameter, the watch boasts a shimmering midnight blue dial with diamond dots above the markers and a subsidiary dial that showcase the moon and the sun. The bezel is set with diamond brilliants and perfectly surrounds the gleaming dial. Powered by an automatic mechanical movement with 50 hours of power reserve, this beauty is also water resistant to 50 meters. The blue calfskin strap, which is interchangeable, completes the romantic look.

Omega

Omega has a long and storied past in watchmaking, with one of its pillar brands being the Constellation. In fact, the Constellation dates back to 1952, when it was first introduced, and has enjoyed many evolutions. This Constellation Co-Axial Chronometer watch combines the best of both worlds: beauty and brawn. Immediately identifiable thanks to the claws that reach from the bezel to the case sides on both sides of the watch (at 3:00 and 9:00), the 27mm 18-karat 5N rose gold watch is delightfully set with 281 diamonds in a swirling pattern on the dial and in rows on the bezel and between each bracelet link. Additionally, it is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Caliber 8421 mechanical movement that is a COSC-certified chronometer attesting to its robustness and precision. A transparent sapphire case back allows for viewing of the finely finished movement.

omega
gucci

Gucci

In 1921, when Guccio Gucci opened his leather goods store in Florence, he specialized in luggage, but also made saddles for horses and leather goods for riders. Inspired by that equestrian lifestyle, Gucci later incorporated the horsebit motif into its products. In fact, in the 1950’s, the horsebit design first made an appearance on handbags by the brand. It has since evolved into jewelry and even watches. This 28mm Gucci Horsebit bangle watch is crafted in stainless steel and boasts a diamond-set horse bit. Even the white mother-of-pearl dial is set with three diamonds on it. This watch is powered by a Swiss-made quartz movement and is water resistant to 50 meters. Simple, subtle but definitively Gucci.

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A Closer Look At The New Chanel Premiere Edition Originale Watch

A Closer Look At The New Chanel Premiere Edition Originale Watch

Just close your eyes and think Chanel. You immediately conjure images of haute couture, of classic elegance, of black and white fashion and of the famed Chanel No. 5 perfume, among others. Maybe you think of Gabrielle (Coco) herself, or of the designs she created and made legendary. Maybe you think of the concepts that inspired her, and maybe you think Chanel watches.

It was in 1987 that the house of Chanel unveiled its first wristwatch. Conceived of by Jacques Helleu, artistic director, that first watch, the Première, was revolutionary for its day. It featured an octagon case that recalled the bottle stopper of the iconic Chanel No. 5 fragrance and was inspired by the shape of Place Vendome, the area of Paris that Chanel called home. That first Première watch boasted a chain link bracelet that was interwoven with black leather – a nod to the beloved Chanel handbags. It was resolutely feminine at a time when most watches were tailored for men, and it fast became one of the most sought-after watches of its time.

 

chanel Première

"I fought to make a design that was strong, that was unique, that – more than just launching a single collection – would become an eternal reference," said Helleu of the Première as he ushered this iconic haute couture brand into the world of watchmaking. Now, Chanel reimagines the emblematic watch in a sleek rendition that is at once modern and yet beautifully retro. Designed by today’s director of the Chanel Watch Creation Studio, Arnaud Chastaingt, the re-issued Première Édition Originale is stylish, chic and immediately identifiable from across a crowded room.

"In 2022, I wanted the Première to find its place again and to put it at the heart of our collection,” said Chastaingt. “This creation is our DNA and a CHANEL code through and through. Far more than a watch, the Première is a lesson in style."

And style is exactly what the Première Édition Originale watch embraces. The octagonal shaped watch is crafted in black and gold – a pure statement of elegance and a tribute to Chanel, who frequently designed in dual colors. The case and bracelet links are stainless steel with 18-karat yellow gold plating, while the dial is black lacquer and the leather that intertwines with the gold plated links is black, as well. The dial is devoid of numerals and markers for a crisp, clean look. Just the Chanel logo, the word "Swiss" and the hands grace the face. A black onyx cabochon is set on the gold-plated crown and the gold-hued hands feature a center black circle where they meet.

The watch is the quintessential embodiment of class and grace. The sapphire crystal that protects the dial is also octagonal thanks to beveled corners and edges that give the watch a great sense of depth and dimension. Offering just the hours and minutes, the watch is powered by a high-precision quartz movement and is water resistant to 30 meters.

chanel ambiance

 

To celebrate the re-issue of this first watch, Chanel Watchmaking and Fine Jewelry has completely redesigned its 18 Place Vendome townhouse. The brand also turned to Korean American model and artist, Soo Joo Park, as the face behind the new Première Édition Originale.

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Quartz Watches And How They Work

Quartz Watches And How They Work

While mechanical watchmaking has been around for centuries, the concept of quartz-powered watches has roots that date back just to the 1960’s. The advent of the quartz watch in 1969 was revolutionary and entirely changed the watchmaking landscape. Here, we take a look at what exactly a quartz watch is and how it came into being.

Quartz

Essentially, a quartz movement consists of an electronic circuit board with a small piece of synthetic crystal etched into it that acts as an oscillator, and a battery. There are no moving mechanical gears, wheels or other components. To break it down in very simple terms, the power to track time is generated via a relay system, with a button-cell battery that relays an electric current to the circuit board that counts the vibrations and tells the quartz crystal oscillator to provide regular electric pulses, or power, to turn the hands.

Most basic quartz watches vibrate at a frequency 32,768 times per second, though there are some very high-precision quartz calibers (VHP) on the market that beat even faster. Those beats per second are divided by the microchip and equate to 60 pulses per minute. Often, you can tell a quartz watch from a mechanical watch by the way the seconds hand moves. On quartz watches, it generally jumps at each second’s passing, while the movement on a mechanical watch is steady.

Many customers prefer a quartz watch to a mechanical watch because the watch keeps running all the time, even when you put it down for a few days or weeks – as long as the battery doesn’t die. This means the watch doesn’t have to be regularly reset, as is the case with a mechanical watch once the power reserve runs down. Generally, as well, today’s quartz watches have batteries that last even longer than those in the past, anywhere from two years to five years.

Most of the top watchmaking countries build their own quartz movements, but other than country of origin, they are all pretty much the same. Interestingly enough, the first quartz watch to come to market was from Japan. The Swiss had the idea but didn’t think that consumers at large would want a non-mechanical heart inside their watches. Here, in a tiny nutshell, is how it played out

quartzfeat2

The Quartz Revolution

In the early 1960’s in Switzerland, several Swiss brands formed the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) in Neuchatel to try to develop a Swiss-made quartz movement. The same research and development was taking place in Japan, with Seiko leading the way. It was on Christmas day, 1969, that Seiko unveiled the world’s first quartz watch: the Astron. The movement was accurate to within five seconds a day – making it very precise. Just 100 pieces of the Astron were made – all in 18-karat yellow gold.

Meanwhile, the first Swiss quartz analog watch, the Ebauches SA Beta 21, made its debut in 1970. However, with centuries of mechanical watchmaking prowess behind it, and the title of the world’s leading makers of luxury mechanical watches, Swiss brands did not pursue serial production of quartz watches. Collectively, most high-end Swiss brands thought it was a fad, and that the idea of a luxury watch running on a battery with an electronic circuit board would not take hold when it came to buying luxury timepieces. They were wrong. The fad became famous.

By the mid 1970’s, as Seiko continued its production of quartz watches, brands like Pulsar, Citizen and others around the world, including brands in China and America, moved forward with quartz technology. By the late 1970’s and early 1980’s, quartz watches had largely become preferred over mechanical watches. They were easy, didn’t need servicing, were precise and less expensive. A significant decline in interest in Swiss mechanical watches almost decimated the industry, with many companies going out of business due to the economic turmoil of what has become known to the Swiss as the quartz crises. For most of the rest of the world, this era was seen as the quartz revolution.

It was in the early 1980’s that things began to change. Nicholas G. Hayek, Sr., was brought in to revamp the industry. He formed ETA SA, a movement company focused on making quartz calibers that were available for purchase by other Swiss brands, enabling many to offer quartz watches alongside their mechanical pieces. Additionally, Hayek created the now-famed Swatch watch, The $35 plastic watch became a global craze and helped lift the Swiss exports of watches numbers higher. Watchmakers who were floundering, found jobs. Brands that couldn’t produce their own quartz calibers had access to them now. By 1985, the Swiss watch industry was regaining its foothold.

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Today, most Swiss watch brands offer quartz watches along with the haute horology mechanical wonders.

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