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Understanding Chronographs

Understanding Chronographs

We regularly get questions from customers when it comes to chronograph watches. What is the point of a chronograph? What does it do? How does it work? Is it necessary? And so on and so forth. These are important questions to answer since  this category of watches is one of the most popular and alluring.

While mechanical (and quartz) chronographs vary in looks, types and functions, most have one important thing in common: Subsidiary dials on the main watch face. Sometimes there are two subsidiary dials, other times there are three, and some brands even offer four smaller inset dials. Sometimes those dials are the same color as the main dial and other times they are bolder thanks to contrasting colors. This harmoniously designed look is usually what attracts customers to the watch to begin with. Here, we answer some of the questions you might have about this beloved watch complication.

 

what is a chronograph

What is a chronograph?

The easiest way to explain a chronograph is to call it a stopwatch. Essentially, in addition to the time-telling functions of a watch, the chronograph measures elapsed time of an event or of multiple events depending on the movement inside the watch. The simplest chronograph has a button on the case side that the wearer pushes to start and stop  timing an event, like a lap around the track. Depending on the chronograph it can measure seconds, minutes and even hours. Generally, the wearer pushes a button to start the timing, presses the button again to stop the timing and presses a button to return the timing hand back to its zero starting position to do its dance all over  again.

Another alluring aspect of the chronograph is the fact that often, the hand that tracks the seconds for the stopwatch is placed from the center of the dial (along with the timekeeping functions of hour and minute hands) and is in a different color than the main hands – sometimes bold red, orange or yellow.

Types of Chronographs

As mentioned, there are a host of different types of chronographs. Some feature just the crown with a pusher in it, or just one additional pusher – these are referred to as monopusher chronographs. Others, typically most chronographs, have two push buttons, one each on either side of the crown. The choice between a monopusher and a two-pusher chronograph is typically just about looks and buyer preferences.

However, there are also additional types of chronographs that time more than a single event. For instance, the more complicated flyback chronograph and the split-second or Rattrapante chronograph. In a flyback chronograph, instead of the wearer having to push a button to have the hand return to start position when it is done timing, that rapid-reset function is built into the watch. So, when the wearer presses stop, the hand automatically flies back to its starting place to begin again. This is a useful function when timing, for instance, each runner in a relay race.

 

The more complicated mechanical Split-Seconds or Rattrapante chronograph is the most elaborate of all types of chronographs – both in its functions and in its making. Some of these chronographs have hundreds of tiny mechanical parts inside (almost double those of a normal chronograph) with gears and teeth that keep everything working precisely. The split-seconds chronograph boasts two additional chronograph seconds hands that are used to time multiple events with the same start time but different ending times, as in timing all of the finish times of multiple  runners in a race. Because of their complexity and their technologically advanced functions, Rattrapantes are among the most expensive chronographs on the market.

Another important factor in chronographs is how tiny of a fraction of a second can they time to. Most time to a second or a fifth or tenth of a second. However, today, there are extreme chronographs that can time to 1/100th of a second so there is no margin for error.

 

what is a chronograph

Other Functions Found in Chronographs

Often, the watch brand building the chronograph opts to pair it with other helpful functions. Typically, these include a tachymeter (generally on the bezel) for measuring speed or distance, a pulsimeter  for measuring heart beats, or other similar functions. Chronographs can also sometimes be deemed chronometers – which means the movement has undergone stringent tests in a laboratory for multiple extreme conditions and passed by staying withing strict confines of error. It is important to note that not all chronographs are chronometers.

SEE OUR RELATED ARTICLE ON CHRONOMETERS.

 

History of the Chronograph

Chronographs – as clocks and timers – date back to 1816, when watchmaker Louis Moinet invented the first one. Five years later, Nicolas Rieussec developed his clock version (which used a pencil to mark start and stop times) and named it chronograph. The word stems from the Greek words time and writer.

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Understanding What A Chronometer Is

Understanding What A Chronometer Is

In the watchmaking world, the word chronometer is often confused with chronograph, but they are not one and the same. Before we explain what a chronometer is, let’s make a distinction: A chronograph does not always have chronometer status and a chronometer does not always have the chronograph stopwatch function built into it. Often these two are combined, but they don’t have to be.

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Essentially, a chronometer is a highly accurate mechanical watch movement that has undergone – and passed – strict precision tests typically conducted by an outside observatory. Those tests take place over a period of time and in a host of different situations and circumstances, where temperatures, humidity and other environments are emulated. The movement must pass all of the tests to within a few seconds of timing deviation (see below) in order to pass. Because watch brands typically use an outside observatory to conduct the testing, and because the accuracy tolerances are so intense, only a small percentage (3 to 4) of watches on the market certified chronometers.

 

what is a chronometer

Chronometer Wristwatch Testing

There are chronometer testing facilities in Besancon, France, in the Saxony region of Germany, in Japan and other places around the world, including several in Switzerland, however the most well-known and prestigious observatory is the Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometers (COSC), with three locations in Switzerland. When collectors refer to their watches as being COSC certified, it means the chronometer certification comes from this observatory. Because certain observatories have slightly different criteria, it is important to the purist chronometer follower to know where their movement was tested. Additionally, a handful of watch brands have developed their own chronometer testing certifications that, in most cases, are even stricter than those of the local observatories. Every watch that undergoes testing and passes holds an official chronometer certificate.

Another alluring aspect of the chronograph is the fact that often, the hand that tracks the seconds for the stopwatch is placed from the center of the dial (along with the timekeeping functions of hour and minute hands) and is in a different color than the main hands – sometimes bold red, orange or yellow.

So, what exactly are the tests these movements undergo? At the COSC, whose testing criteria is based on ISO 3159 standards, a watch is tested for five to 15 days in five different positions and in multiple circumstances such as extreme temperatures, humidity, pressure and more. Measurements (for timekeeping accuracy) are taken daily and are compared with two independent atomic clocks. Only watches that meet the precision criteria will be granted an official chronometer certificate.

For COSC certification, the movement must keep accurate time with no more than a daily average deviation rate of -4/+6 seconds, a mean variation of no more than two seconds and a thermal variation of + or -0.6 seconds, among others. Movements that pass the chronometer certification are deemed durable and extremely precise. The movement is engraved with a serial number and the brand is able to indicate “chronometer” status clearly on the dial.

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chronometer history

History of Chronometers

The birth of the chronometer was a long time coming. In fact, its development took decades of research and was mandated by the fact that without a precise watch, seafarers could not determine longitude. This caused many a ship in the 1600’s and 1700’s to run aground and sink – costing thousands of lives and precious cargo.

Countries like England and France were desperate to find a timepiece for their ships that could keep accurate time despite the salt water, wildly divergent temperatures and rough seas. In fact, in 1714 the United Kingdom’s Parliament set up the Longitude Act and offered a then-significant amount of money to anyone who could develop a working mechanical instrument (a “chronometer” as coined by an early competitor, Jeremy Thacker) that would enable sailors to calculate longitude via a standard time and celestial navigation. Many a scientist and watchmaker spent half their lives trying to find a solution, and multiple scientists and clockmakers received small prize sums.

 

The actual invention of the first accurate chronometer came 23 years later, and its development is credited to British watchmaker John Harrison in 1737. Essentially, it was a clock set within a gimbal within an outer case and then placed within a box so that as the seas swelled, the movement could sway instead of being snapped. The box further protected the watch from the elements.

Over the course of 30 years, Harrison built four more portable chronometer clocks using certain materials that were impervious to rust. Those clocks went to sea on different journeys for testing and were finally deemed accurate and reliable. Harrison spent years convincing the Longitude Board that his clocks were precise and in the end he was awarded a series of payments totaling about 23,000 British Sterling.

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Longines Celebrate 190th Anniversary, Unveils New Master Watches

Longines Celebrate 190th Anniversary, Unveils New Master Watches

Originally founded in Saint- Imier, Switzerland, in 1832, Longines is almost a household name today. This watch company boasts a long history, rich with tradition, elegance and top-notch performance, and has produced sport watches, classic watches and some highly innovative timepieces throughout its near two-century lifespan. Now, as it celebrates its 190th anniversary, the brand unveils three new, exceptional Master Collection watches.

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The Master Collection is a key pillar for Longines and encompasses calendar watches, chronographs and simply elegant three-hands with date – all housing manufacture-made movements that demonstrate the technical prowess of the brand. By blending its advanced aesthetic viewpoint with performance-driven perfection in the three new watches, Longines offers a true legacy look.

 

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Created in stainless steel, or 18-karat rose gold or yellow gold, the new watches are thoroughly modern while still resolutely heritage inspired. Because we carry the stainless steel version (there are also limited editions of 190 pieces in rose or yellow gold), we will take a much closer look at that model, which has all the bells and whistles of the other two but is not limited and has a sweet retail price point of $2,400.

The 40mm watch is crafted in stainless steel with a grained sandblasted silver dial with a shimmering finish that is immediately alluring. The dial is engraved with stylized Arabic numerals in a deep silver hue and an outer dotted minute track. The slender hour, minutes and seconds hands are crafted in blued steel for a harmonious appeal. The case lines are sleek and allow for a great view of the dial, as there is no added bezel. This concept brings an air of urban chic to the watch.

 

The watch is powered by Longines automatic (self-winding) mechanical Caliber L888.5 that uses high-tech materials for more precise timing and less wear and tear. The high-precision movement beats at 25,200 vibrations per hour and is equipped with a silicon balance spring that is resistant to temperature variations and magnetic fields and is also corrosion resistant. These factors contribute to the precision and the lifespan of the watch. The movement also offers the wearer 72 hours of power reserve.

 

Master Ski Longines

The rotor is hand finished in a perlage pattern, and much of the state-of-the-art movement and its meticulous workmanship is visible via a transparent sapphire case back. There is even a commemorative engraving on the case back. The watch is finished with a dark anthracite-gray alligator leather strap and is backed by Longines’ five-year warranty. It is water resistant to 30 meters.

 

The Master Collection is the watch of choice for several Longines brand ambassadors, including American alpine skier Mikaela Shiffrin and British Emmy nominated actor Rege’-Jean Page.

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Enjoy a Sophisticated Lifestyle with Unique Luxury Watches

Enjoy a Sophisticated Lifestyle with Unique Luxury Watches

Enjoy a Sophisticated Lifestyle with Unique Luxury Watches

Modern people are looking for more than a name to follow. Instead, connection and  unique performance are some of the most decisive aspects we consider before adding a new luxurious watch to our growing collection.

That’s why our editors have decided to bring you influential luxury watch designers that have evolved so much they can completely transport us. You’ll be delighted in every new piece you try on (whether you’re a watch aficionado or not).

We want you to have high-end timepieces that make you proud, so here are legendary watches to take your breath away with a blend of features and designs you can’t find anywhere else.

High-performance luxury watch designers

Cartier

A perfect combination of inherited excellence and aesthetic splendor, Cartier’s watches are filled with creativity and luxuriousness through clean curves and precise forms—consistent in every Cartier creation.

Cartier integrates ultra-stylish movements into increasingly sophisticated cases, creating true watchmaking classics which encapsulate heritage and new concepts.

A Cartier dial is continually emphasized and complemented by intrinsic straps, creating fluid movements that never put class aside.

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IWC

IWC

A modern definition of enhanced timepieces, IWC has been a little bit of an obsession for watchmakers with premier wristwatches that are tested and certified to meet the most detailed standards.

If your heart beats faster for watches that can be relied upon for precision and are brimming with style and quality every year, IWC won’t disappoint.

IWC has changed the world of watchmaking with a legacy of high performance, adventurous designs, and impressive power reserves. Choose yours!

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Gucci

Gucci has become one of the leading manufacturers of luxury goods in the world. The same is valid for the designer’s iconic fashion watch segment.

Gucci implements the complete timepiece production, and the result is upscale luxury features with an Italian DNA and Swiss movements which never let go of their elegance and sophistication.

Wearing a Gucci is to wear its culture and context with designs that impress with intricate straps and bracelets for even more fluid movements. Gucci offers timepieces lavishly decorated with white, yellow, and rose gold.

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Gucci
Chanel

Chanel

The magic of the name Chanel continues to inspire our hearts and puts the designer’s iconic watches among the most famous in the world.

Made from beginning to end in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the heart of Swiss watchmaking, Chanel’s timepieces triumph with elaborate configurations which are awe-inspiring with artistic personality.

Chanel’s legendary style is transferred to its watches, with collections that broadcast individuality and are emphasized by the elegance in every meticulous curve. Channel’s watches are perfect for men and women and come in nearly one hundred different options.

Every ingenious watch from Chanel stands apart with tourbillons, high-precision chronographs, scratch-resistant sapphire glasses, and luxury options generously encrusted with diamonds.

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Tudor

Here’s something to make you proud: a beautiful Tudor. Exude confidence and elevate your style wearing a designer brand that speaks for itself with watches designed to be the focal point of any look.

Each new Tudor collection is more impressive than the last, with quality and reliability, from its edgy aesthetics to its very comprehensive chronographs.

Tudor reflects the codes in the classic watches of the 50s and 70s, combining expertise with a retro-chic fit that is perfect for any occasion. If you’re a lover of motorsports or diving, you’ll find impressive mechanical complications in a Tudor watch.

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Tudor

Luxury watches in the Chicago Area

C.D. Peacock is your source in the Chicago area for luxurious timepieces you’ll wear proudly. We help you select a watch which meets all your needs and helps you enhance your image.  

We offer world-famous designers such as Omega, Rolex, Cartier, Longines, TAG Heuer, Mont Blanc, and much more! Join hundreds of customers who’ve been surprised by what a sophisticated timepiece can do. 

Visit us for incredibly reliable timepieces and uplift your entire jewelry collection with wristwatches that are a great financial investment but also an investment in your style.  Explore the possibilities with us.  

Check C.D. Peacock’s Instagram and Facebook pages for our latest news and stunning jewelry inspiration!

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The Essential Guide To Cartier Watches

The Essential Guide To Cartier Watches

Renowned for creating the world’s first purpose-built men’s wristwatch, Cartier is nothing short of iconic. The legendary brand is responsible for designing some of the world’s most recognizable watches, making Cartier timepieces an essential part of any watch enthusiast’s collection.

So, to help you pick the perfect Cartier watch for you, we’ve put together this handy guide with everything you need to know about the legendary watchmaker.

The making of an iconic brand

Louis-François Cartier founded his business in Paris, in 1847. With iconic Cartier jewelry pieces and watches being spotted on some of the world's most fashionable and elegant people, it wasn’t long until the brand became renowned for its sophisticated and creative designs that were way ahead of their time.

With a slew of emblematic pieces ranging from colorful Tutti Frutti jewelry and panther rings to the famous Santos and Tank watches, the brand blends innovative design with ideas that were first dreamt up by Louis Cartier over a century ago to create timeless accessories that never go out of style.

Cartier Swiss

Are Cartier watches made in Switzerland?

Cartier makes all its timepieces in La Chaux-de-Fonds, an area in Switzerland that’s known for watchmaking. Although the company is headquartered in France, Cartier has its own factory in Switzerland to control every step of the watchmaking process in the land of the greatest watchmakers in the world. Needless to say, watchmaking is an integral part of the Cartier DNA.

Santos de Cartier

Santos de Cartier

As an integral part of watchmaking history, the Santos is one of the most iconic watches to ever be created. The watch was first designed in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted a watch that would allow him to tell time while flying, without removing his hands from the controls.

Among its iconic features are the beautifully screwed-down square bezel and the stylish rectangle case that give this watch a classic look with a modern twist.

Cartier Tank

Arguably the most famous dress watch of all time, the Tank has adorned some of the world’s most famous wrists - from JFK to Lady Di. The straight lines of the Tank have remained as popular today as they were over a century ago when the model debuted in 1918.

Among this design’s variations are the Tank Louis Cartier, the Tank Must, the Tank Américaine, and the Tank Française.

Cartier Tank
Ballon de Cartier

Ballon de Cartier

This model stands out as one of the few Cartier watches that features a circular case instead of the iconic square and rectangular silhouettes the brand is known for. Featuring a 42 mm case, the Ballon de Cartier s the biggest model in the brand’s catalog.

Arguably this watch’s main feature is the eye-catching rounded crown inside a round crown guard, which beautifully contrasts with the angularity of the Roman numeral hour markers.

Panthère de Cartier

Combining the best Swiss watchmaking with Parisian sophistication, Panthère de Cartier was responsible for introducing to the world the concept of a jewelry watch. Named after a panther, these timepieces were created to represent fierce femininity in an ever-so-cool way.

Inspired by the sleek movements of the beautiful animal, the Panthère features an ultra-flexible chain-link bracelet and a stylish square-shaped case.

Panthère de Cartier
Baignoire de Cartier

Baignoire de Cartier

This beautiful watch gets its name from the French word for “bathtub” thanks to its unique stretched-out shape. The Baignoire has been a cult hit since the 1950s, and it’s gained a reputation for being the ultimate expression of elegant luxury, particularly among French it-girls - from Catherine Deneuve to Mélanie Laurent.

Featuring a design that manages to be both timeless and modern at the same time, the Baignoire de Cartier is a must-have in any collection.

Pasha de Cartier

Legend has it that the first Pasha watch was originally designed for the Pasha of Marrakesh in the 1930s, after he requested a one-of-a-kind watch from Louis Cartier. Featuring an oversized face for its time, a crown cover, and a metal grid to protect the dial, the Pasha de Cartier quickly became a fan favorite when it was released to the public in the 1980s.

This classic-yet-contemporary timepiece blends feminine and masculine watch silhouettes to create a statement-making piece that’s essential to any collection.

Pasha de Cartier

Where to buy Cartier watches in the Chicago Area?

For the best selection of Cartier Watches in Illinois, head to C.D. Peacock. Whether you’re after a classic Santos, a legendary Tank, a stylish Pasha, a chic Panthère, a unique Baignoire, or any other iconic timepiece, you’ll find the perfect Cartier watch for you at C.D. Peacock.

Visit us in Oak Brook, Schaumburg, or Skokie, IL. If you prefer, you can send us a text using the box in the corner of this page, and we’ll be with you shortly. And, don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and Facebook for our latest news and stunning jewelry inspiration!

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Power Reserve: An Inside Look At What It Is And How It Works

Power Reserve: An Inside Look At What It Is And How It Works

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With so much focus on mechanical watches, you’ve probably heard the term “power reserve.” But what does power reserve really mean and how do watch companies make it happen? Essentially, the power reserve indicates the amount of time the movement can dispense constant energy (the autonomy) before the watch needs to be wound.

Most mechanical watches offer a power reserve of several days on up to eight days (though some brands offer even more than 8 days). Eight days was the target time, as this means the owner of a mechanical hand-wound watch can plan to wind the timepiece once a week (with a single day of safety for the forgetful winder). Of course, should the power run all the way down, the owner can naturally wind it again, but then has to go through the task of resetting the time, date, etc.

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Accomplishing longer power-reserve durations is all about proper springs, gears and cylinders. Essentially, a spring is tightly wound and then placed inside a cylinder. This is where the energy is stored. The spring should release its tension in a consistent manner, offering constant energy to power the watch at a regular rate. Longer reserves mean the caliber has to be larger to make room for a larger mainspring and cylinder, which sometimes translates into a slightly larger watch size.

Two things are worth noting here. One is that winding that spring and placing it into the cylinder is no easy feat. It takes months of training just to properly wind the spring, place it in the cylinder and adjust it so that the force is constant. Additionally, it should be noted that all of these incredible mechanics take place inside a movement that is usually no bigger than the size of a half-dollar coin.

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Most contemporary hand-wound watches feature a power-reserve indicator on the dial. This indicator displays how much energy is left in the movement before it needs to be wound. Some watch brands have made amazing strides in offering creative power-reserve indicators that go above and beyond an arc display on the dial. Either way, the power reserve offers, in a sense, a true symbiotic relationship between the person and the hand-wound watch. The timepiece needs to be wound to continue tracking time, and the wearer has the distinct pleasure of breathing life, so to speak, back into the watch.

Our knowledgeable staff would be happy to demonstrate the power-reserve indications on some of our hand-wound watches. Just stop in any time.

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3 Simple Tips for Taking Care of Your New Mechanical Watch

3 Simple Tips for Taking Care of Your New Mechanical Watch

Purchasing a luxury watch can be an exciting time — whether it’s your first watch or your fifth watch. Once home, however, you will need to properly take care of your watch to give it a longer and healthier lifespan. While all watches need regular professional servicing, following these few tips can help you get the most from your new investment.

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1. Clean It. Everything you do while wearing your watch causes it to come into contact with dirt, dust, perspiration and even a few splashes of water while washing your hands or doing the dishes. The best thing you can do for your watch is a simple cleaning. When you take it off at the end of each day, wipe it down using a soft cloth to remove grime. If your watch has a metal bracelet, you can use a soft cloth and warm water to clean it, but be careful not to get too much water near the case. Even if you have a water-resistant watch, it’s best to clean it after swimming, as chlorine and salt can be abrasive. Also note that leather straps may require special care and cleaning.

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2. Know the Basics of Winding. If you own a mechanical watch it is important to follow the brand’s instructions about when and when not to wind it, and in which direction. Some complex watches cannot be wound at certain hours, when the mechanics inside are making their own calculations and adjustments. It is also important to remember when setting the watch to move the hands in a clockwise direction instead of counter clockwise.

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3. Have it Serviced. As mentioned above, mechanical watches require regular servicing — just like a car. The gears and wheels must be oiled, and that oil can dry out over time. The watch needs to be carefully opened, examined, re-oiled, cleaned, have new gaskets put in to replace old gaskets and be retested for water resistance. Most brands suggest this be done every five to seven years.

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Appraising Time: Why Your Luxury Watches Should be Appraised and Insured

Appraising Time: Why Your Luxury Watches Should be Appraised and Insured

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We all know that generally you need to carry extra insurance to cover your luxury goods, including jewelry. However, we often forget about covering watches. Somehow, because they are utilitarian pieces, they often slip our minds. However, we believe that you should have your luxury watches appraised and insured.

Having a watch appraised is vital, especially if it is a vintage or heirloom piece. Often, the value of these watches fluctuates based on the market and, in just a few years’ time, watches can gain in value. While you may never be able to replace these keepsakes should something happen to them, you at least want to be sure you are properly insured.

For new watches, often your receipt will suffice for insurance purposes. However, a watch that is typically a couple of years old could have appreciated in value based on the market demand. Therefore having a recent appraisal may help in retrieving full value of the watch. This is also true if the timepiece is diamond- or gemstone-adorned.

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Reasons to have your watches appraised include not just theft, but also fire or other significant loss. Proper appraisals are helpful for estate planning or when facing life’s eventualities, such as divorce or death. While many suggest that a new appraisal on jewelry be done every three years, watch appraisals have a slightly longer shelf life of about five years or so, depending on the timepiece. While appraisals do cost a little money, the truth of the matter is, if you don’t have your fine watches appraised, and you suffer a loss, you will be in a regretful state. Better to protect your investment. Watches should be appraised by watchmakers and retailers who are authorized to carry the brand. Stop by and discuss watch appraisals with us any time.

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IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Ventures Where No-one Else Goes, Unveils In-House-Made Calibers

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Ventures Where No-one Else Goes, Unveils In-House-Made Calibers

IWC Schaffhausen is a brand well known for its bold timepieces that venture where no one else goes. This brand was a leader in technology since its inception, creating the incredibly oversized Portugieser watch well ahead of its time, inventing the first anti-magnetic watches in the 1930s, unveiling one of the most complicated watches in the world (Il Destriero Scafusia) in the last decades of the 20th century and today exploring the Galapagos and world’s oceans as part of its efforts to support the environment.

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Now, as witnessed at last week’s SIHH exhibition in Geneva, IWC is moving ahead with the development of its own in-house-made calibers to power its watches. The rollout is time consuming, as creating a movement takes years, but the first fruits of the brand’s efforts were unveiled last week. Among the new watches to house Manufacture-made calibers is the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar. This makes perfect sense since this year marks the 75th anniversary of the Portugieser collection — a line we love. The stunning blue-dialed watch will make its way to our store later this year, but for now, we wanted to make the introduction.

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