One of the biggest questions we get when it comes to buying a watch has to do with how large or small the case is. It is one of those times when size really does matter, especially since we are often witnessing different trends in watch sizes. For instance, decades ago, in the mid 20th century, most watches were small. The majority of watches were typically from about 32mm (1.2 inches) in diameter to 34mm (1.5 inches). People were fine with that. The watch was there to tell the time and to look inconspicuous.

But in the 1980’s things started to change. Watches that were 36mm (1.4 inches across)or 38mm (1.5 inches) in diameter emerged on the market. They were more sporty watches and they looked good in larger sizes. Within the coming decades, watches grew progressively larger and eventually would explode in sizes. A 42mm or 44mm (1.73 inches in diameter) watch became the norm and then in the 21st century, we witnessed large 48 and even 52 mm sizes that were more like two inches in diameter coming from daring brands that wanted to be sure everyone sees the watch on your wrist.

Much of the influence on size came from fashion codes and from the new desire to have the watch make a statement. Sometimes, though, size was a byproduct of function. The more complications and features a brand built into a mechanical watch, the more parts were required and the movement would get larger and thicker.

In the past decade, though, we have been witnessing a slimming down of watches – both in diameter and thickness. Today, the 42mm watch is more in demand than at 48mm watch for men and 36mm is a great size for a slimmer wrist. Again, some of this transition has to do with taste and style and some of it has to do with the advent of micro-technology.

Still, we can find watches on either side of the current “norm” spectrum, especially depending on if the watch is a dress watch or a sports watch. The thing to remember is that size really is a personal preference. However, here are a few hints that may help when trying to decide.

Consider readability. Some people love the look of a mini watch (26-30mm) but find the dial difficult to read. Most of the time these watches are created by designer brands and are meant to be dainty accessories. Cleaner, larger dials are easier to read.

Consider the look. Most people want a watch to sit perfectly on their wrist. If the watch lugs (the pieces that connect the case to the strap) come out too far on the sides of the wrist, the watch is probably too big for you. You could find yourself accidentally snagging it on things. It is best if the entire case sits nicely on your wrist.

Consider the reason you’re buying the watch. If you are buying a watch for a sport you indulge in – like diving or flying — you will most likely want a larger watch that can be worn over a wetsuit and be easily readable. Plus, sports watches like chronographs and field or tool watches tend to be bigger and more rugged so they can go the distance with you.

Consider Comfort. Sometimes watches have an ergonomic fit. The cases are slightly curved to fit the wrist better and be more comfortable. Sometimes they have curved lugs for the same reason. Some people prefer a supple mesh style bracelet to a stiff bracelet because it feels better against the skin and is typically thinner and sleeker looking. Other people prefer straps to bracelets because they are more comfortable with fabric, leather or rubber against the wrist instead of metal that can get hot or cold.

Some people want a single daily-wear watch; others want more than one so they can accessorize their wardrobes. Others are avid watch enthusiasts or serious collectors. After all, watches can be addicting thanks to their aesthetics, their mechanics and more. Additionally, watches typically not only hold their value, but also increase in value over the years so for some they are a worthwhile investment. With so many watch brands creating timepieces that range from a hundred dollars to a million dollars and more, though, it is daunting to know which watch to buy. Here, we offer four things to consider before making your next watch purchase.

Keep it Personal

The single most important thing to remember – the golden rule of watch collecting – is to buy what you like. Trust your own personal style and taste. Give some thought to your interests and your lifestyle so you get timepieces that tell your story. If you are a pilot, you may be into aviation style watches with clean dials and added functions. A car person? There are a host of watch brands aligned with automobile brands, races, vintage rallies and more. For the person who loves a classic look, designs abound.

In fact, there are so many different types of watches (dive watches, chronographs, complications) and genres of watches (military or re-editions), that it will be easy to find the right statement you want to make with the watch on your wrist. Some collectors find they like only certain color dials, while others love just a specific brand and collect watch after watch from that brand.

Most watch lovers usually chock their collection with a great daily driver, a small complication like a chronograph or dual time zone watch, a mix of bracelet and strap watches (or get a watch with an interchangeable strap system you can do yourself), and – if you can afford it – a nice complication like an annual or perpetual calendar, world time watch or something even more complex. The key to remember here is that there is no right or wrong. It is all about your own personal likes.

Set a Budget

Especially in today’s world, where watches can vary greatly in prices, it is important to set a budget before you even go into a store and try them on. It is easy to get caught up in the moment when you find a watch you love that is out of your budget. There are plenty of value-proposition watches on the market where you can get great quality without breaking the bank.

And sometimes, it is nice to have a couple of quality watches than having just one piece. Besides, a strong wardrobe usually includes watches in several price ranges and offering different looks: a good sports watch, a classic piece, maybe a big brand name that you’ve always wanted, but one of their opening price-point collections. If you have a big budget and can go for an important piece, that’s great, too. But know your limits.

Think about Materials – Inside and Out

Earlier, when we said to consider your personal preferences, we were thinking lifestyle and looks. But there is more to think about with a watch: materials and movements. Do you like stainless steel or do you prefer a more light-weight option such as titanium, or heavier options like gold and even platinum? Do you want a high-tech case material like carbon fiber or engineered ceramic? Some materials are more scratch resistant and corrosion resistant than others.

What’s inside the watch matters, too. You may prefer a watch with a quartz movement that runs on batteries and doesn’t have to be wound, or you might love the idea of a mechanical watch. If the concept of hundreds of tiny pieces working together in harmony is a must for you, then you need to consider if you want a self-winding or manual wind watch. Essentially, one will be selfpowered by the movement of the wrist while the other will need to be wound by hand.

Have Fun

A watch purchase shouldn’t be daunting. It should be enjoyable. Don’t worry about how many watches constitutes a collection. Don’t worry about what others think you “should” buy. Try the watches on, indulge a little and have fun. Beware, though. Once you really start getting into watches, you may very well get hooked.

Swiss watch brand Longines, with more than 190 years of history, has a long and storied past in the world of aviation. After all, the advent of wristwatches and flying almost grew up together, with both having roots in the early 20th century. Now, Longines recalls that aviation heart and soul in the newest Pilot Majetek that is inspired by a model first released in 1935. If you love modern retro, this watch has your name all over it.

First, a bit about Longines and the pilots of yesteryear. Throughout the 1920’s and 1930’s Longines watches were a top choice among aviators. In fact, beginning in 1919, the brand was the official timekeeper for the FAI and timed 34 record setting flights in the ensuing two decades. This is the brand that Charles Lindbergh wore on his epic nearly 34-hourlong flight across the Atlantic – marking the first solo flight from New York to Paris. It was all timed by Longines, and this is the brand that inspired Lindbergh to work together with Longines to create the now-famed Hour Angel watch.

In fact, the brand had begun building chronometer timepieces as early as 1915. In 1920, more than 100 years ago, Longines introduced the first rotating bezel watch with moving hour marker to act as an aviation counter. It continued to make technical advances over the years and in 1935 released the Longines 3582, created for the Czechoslovak Air Force. On the case back, the words “Majetek Czechoslovak army” – Property of the Czechoslovak army.

Now, Longines introduces the Pilot Majetek in honor of its aviation history and of this special 1935 watch. Naturally, it is equipped with the most current mechanics and movements, with rugged materials and state-of-the-art technology, but the design is a contemporary take on history – with all of the signature features of the original.

The 43mm Pilot Majetek is crafted in stainless steel with a bi-directional fluted bezel that is meticulously finished and incredibly alluring. The bezel is mounted on a cushioncornered squared case with ergonomic lugs. The case shape rings true to the original shape that was registered by the “winged hourglass” brand (the shape of its logo) on April 1, 1935. The highly precise timepiece boasts modern proportions and is slightly more curved for easier wearability than its bulkier 1935 muse. Majetek offers hours, minutes, seconds and a Super-LumiNova triangle arrow to indicate “starting time.”

The mechanical self-winding movement, the Longines L893.6 caliber, boasts a new patented gear mechanism and is equipped with a magnetic-resistant silicon balance spring. A certified chronometer – by the COSC – ensures high precision. The watch offers 72 hours of power reserve and is sold with a brown or green leather strap with beige topstitching or with a NATO strap made from recycled materials.

For those who love aviation and retro-inspired watches, this is a must-see timepiece. Stop in any time.

In the watch industry, there is so much talk about the looks of a watch, its features, its functions, what powers it. But sometimes there is another conversation, one that can be overlooked: the material that your watch is made of. Today, we have so many choices of materials for cases, bezels, straps and more that it can be a little mind boggling. Keep in mind, though, that what your watch is made of can impact things like durability, scratch-ability, longevity, and even price.

Long the staple in watchmaking, noble materials such as gold and platinum remain important to the watch world. They are considered the precious metals and will never go out of style. But they simply aren’t enough for today’s visionary watchmakers who are spending millions investing in new substances that offer an added advantage to the wearer and make an important statement in time.

In addition to searching for new materials, many brands are finding new ways to make and machine existing materials, creating alloys that are ever stronger and more durable or hypo allergenic or something. In fact, some brands have even established their own research laboratories or working with universities or outside-the-watch-world companies for new alternatives. Here, we take a look at some of the top alternative materials on the market for watch cases and bezels, what they are and why they matter.

Metals

In addition to the noble metals,stainless steel plays an important role in the watch world. In fact, it was back in the 1970’s that brands really started exploring stainless steel as an alternative to the higher-priced precious metals. Stainless steel is durable, doesn’t scratch as easily as the nobles and is often resistant to the elements of water, salt and perspiration. It is still a great option in today’s watches, from dress to daily wear and, of course, sport watches.

Titanium watches came about later in the 20th century, and over the past few decades have become all the rage. Titanium is ultralight in weight, about 40 percent less than a steel watch, and incredibly strong – making it an ideal sports watch material. It has antimagnetic properties, is hypo-allergenic and is more scratch resistant than stainless steel. Also, as of late, can be polished or satin finished for a nice look on the wrist. Furthermore, it is corrosion resistant. However, it is not as malleable to work with as steel and therefore typically costs more than steel.

Another thing to take note of when looking at a watch is that some brands coat their steel or titanium watches in colors to offer a stealth or colorful appeal. Those coatings are done either by Physical Vapor Deposit (PVD), or the more expensive and more scratch resistant alternative: Diamond Like Coating (DLC).

Another metal gaining popularity in the past decade or so (but that first made its debut on a Gerald Genta Gefica Safari watch back in the 1980’s) is bronze. While bronze is a softer alloy than steel but it has the distinct advantage of changing its patina over time with wear and exposure to elements. Each bronze watch will develop its own unique patina and that makes it a sought after case material among collectors.

Ceramic

Engineered high-tech ceramic has become a material of choice for cases and bezels for many brands. With the initial ceramic watches making their debut in the 1980’s (by Omega’s sister brand, Rado), engineered ceramic was a concept borrowed from the space industry. Within a decade or so other savvy watch brands began creating entire collections in engineered ceramic, which is virtually scratchproof and typically has a high sheen to it.

Chanel was a leader in its use of ceramic, which initially could be made only in black or white (Chanel’s natural colors). Now, however, certain watch brands are creating ceramic in a host of colors that range from khaki green to pale blue and more. Make no mistake, though, developing colored ceramic is no easy feat.

Engineered sapphire is made using a heating and cooling process that renders the materials hard, durable, light weight and hypoallergenic. The material is perfect for bezels in dive watches because they can withstand chemical erosion and they boast antimagnetic properties.

Not all ceramic is created equally, and the ceramic of a luxury watch can differ in attributes from a lower-priced ceramic watch that is more affordable. Additionally, some top notch brands are even presenting their own ceramic alloys. IWC, for instance, blends ceramic with titanium for its patented Ceratanium® that is harder, more shock resistant and more hypo allergenic.

Carbon Fiber

Carbon and carbon fiber watches are another great choice for sporty timepieces especially. The material is extremely light weight and durable and is considered to be about five times as strong as stainless steel. Relatively speaking, a carbon watch will be more expensive than its stainless steel counterpart due to the complexity involved in its making, which requires a special machining process that is an expensive investment. Still, scientists say that carbon fiber can last for more than 50 years without showing signs of wear and tear. One of the nicest things about carbon fiber, other than its stealth appeal, weight, durability and anti-corrosion properties, is its looks. Carbon fiber watches have a distinctive pattern on them that results from the weaving and heating of all of the individual strands of carbon.

Of course, there are a host of other high-tech substances on the market that include sapphire, Kevlar and a variety of other alloys and proprietary advancements. Why not stop in sometime to take a look at the watches we carry that include some of these alternative materials.

Long respected as a noble metal, gold was among the earliest metals to be formed into jewelry, artifacts and more. Early civilizations worshipped gold, paid homage to gold and held it up as a symbol of wealth and even religion. Today, gold pervades our cultures – as a color, as an adjective (think golden anniversaries and golden opportunities), as a metal and as an international monetary exchange.

A preferred choice for luxury watches (as well as platinum, of course), gold comes in many hues today – ranging from yellow gold to pink gold, rich rose gold, white gold and more. Some brands have even developed their own proprietary colors of gold that have warmer hues or that offer added benefits like enhanced scratch resistance. The colors and features are derived from additives mixed with the gold.

So, what creates the colors of gold? The different metals, and the varying amounts of those metals, that comprise the final 18-karat gold piece. These metals are added to the gold during the heating and melting process so that in the end, an 18-karat gold item is 75 percent pure gold.

• Yellow gold generally consists of 75 percent pure 24-karat gold and 25 percent silver and copper mixed in even parts. However, brands that want a warmer yellow shade will add more copper to the mix and less silver.
• White gold is created using 75 percent pure 24-karat gold mixed with white metals such as nickel, zinc or palladium.
• Pink, rose and richer gold hues are warmer tones than yellow and each is achieved by a adding a different amount of copper to the pure gold.For instance, the lighter-hued pink gold is typically referred to as 3N (75 percent pure gold, 12.5 percent silver and 12.5 percent copper).The slightly deeper rose gold is typically called 4N and consists of more copper than silver. The darker, almost red-colored, gold is referred to as 5N rose gold and consists of 75 percent puregold and 25 percent copper.

These colors of gold are the most prevalent used in watches. However, as mentioned, some brands formulate their own colors of gold, with hues ranging from honey to brown and more, and often with metals that help prolong the life of the gold or enhance its scratch resistance. Rolex boasts Everose gold and Chanel, for instance, has its own patented Beige gold that exudes a softer, warmer tone than yellow gold but is not on the pink side. The gold has been alloyed according to a secret mixture to ensure that the gold won’t fade or tarnish over time.

Since its founding in Paris in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier has been synonymous with luxury, mystical beauty and creativity. The brand’s pioneering spirit has always been evident in its luxurious jewelry collections. As far back as the 19th century, the idea of a panther as a decorative motif could be found in Cartier goods.

However, it was in the first half of the 20th century, in 1933, that designer Jeanne Toussaint was appointed by Louis Cartier (also her lover) as Director of Fine Jewelry. Her influences can be found throughout those early pieces, but none so much as the beloved panther motif.

Toussaint is credited with bringing the beloved panther to life in her contemporary designs – making it one of the most iconic Cartier motifs of all time. Since she embraced the big cat as a symbol of mystery, feminine beguile and selfconfidence, this grand animal has served as the muse for Cartier designers ever since.

Continually re-interpreting the Panthere motif, Cartier has brought the concept to life in its watch collections, as well as jewelry. The panther first made its way to the brand’s Swiss-made timepiece collection in 1983 in the form of a square case with cushioned corners. The watch boasted a bold, integrated bracelet with links that were incredibly supple just like the cat’s moves. It was an instant success

In fact, the Panthère de Cartier watch – with its great ‘80’s vibe – enjoyed much fame during the 1980’s and 1990’s and was seen on the wrists of celebrities like Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow and others. Unfortunately, it was discontinued in 2004, but that didn’t stop true Cartier watch lovers from seeking it out on the pre-owned market.

It was so in demand that it was re-launched in 2017 with subtle updates. The concept was to make this a true jewelry watch with a metal bracelet that felt more like fabric than metal and without needing to overdo it on the diamonds. Cartier added multi-row wrap bracelets, manchette shaped pieces and mini versions for a sophisticated selection for women in the know. The smaller sizes were sleeker and more in tune with the 21st century.

The collection to date includes pieces in rose gold, white gold and yellow gold, as well as a mixture of the different colors. They come with diamond settings on the bezel, or devoid of diamonds.

The versions include an 18-karat rose gold version set with a diamond bezel and a golden plum colored dial, an 18-karat yellow gold version with a golden-hued dial, and two steel models, one with anthracite gray/black dial and no diamonds, or with midnight blue dial and 36 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel.

Immediately identifiable from across a crowded room, the Panthere de Cartier collection is the brand’s quintessential jewelry watch thanks to the ultra-flexible bracelet and the stunning cushion-cornered square case. Measuring just 6.05 mm in thickness, the pieces – powered by quartz movements – are true statement makers.

If you’ve ever seen a watch with a tourbillon escapement built into it, and visible on the dial side, you would remember it. The constantly moving escapement is simply mesmerizing. So, you may be wondering: exactly what is a tourbillon and what does it do?

French for “whirlwind” – the tourbillon escapement is a regulating mechanism that compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effect of gravity on the watch when it is in certain positions. Basically, when a watch is lying flat, the balance spring dilates during oscillation and creates some drag – resulting in timetracking errors of as much as a second a day. Theoretically, this does not happen when the watch is in a vertical position on the wrist. However, the wrist is not always in a vertical position.

The tourbillon escapement compensates for these differences -- countering out the drag thanks to itsconstruction, wherein the balance wheel and escapement – now combined as the tourbillon escapement -- are fitted into a rotating cage or carriage and the complete assembly revolves continuously at a constant rate. This averages the effects of gravity over each revolution or spin of the tourbillon cage.

A legendary watchmaker obsessed with perfecting timekeeping, Breguet patented it in 1801 and marketed it in 1805. His tourbillon escapement featured the seconds indication on the carriage pivot, so he ensured that the tourbillon rotated once a minute.

Most of today’s tourbillons are referred to as one-minute tourbillons. However today’s watchmakers have elevated the tourbillon to all new heights – with some offering multiple (double or triple) axis tourbillons and others creating 30-second tourbillons, multiple-minute tourbillons and more. Others have eliminated the two bridges that hold the escapement in place, using just one upper bridge so the tourbillon looks like it is suspended in air. This is called a flying tourbillon.

Other brands have built their tourbillon escapements to look like three-dimensional works of art – using spherical or globe-like carriages. Gyrotourbillons gyrate on multiple different axis to counteract gravity. Some tourbillon escapements are placed in Faraday-like cages to be able to spin more freely and yet others house multiple cages that spin at different rates. Some brands even combine the tourbillon escapement with other high complications (such as minute repeaters or perpetual calendars) to offer what the industry refers to as a grand complication.

Because of the complexity of the tourbillon, and the time it takes to build (a single watch can take as long as six months to assemble), tourbillon watches generally command high retail prices – well over $50,000 to $75,000 and more. It should be noted, though, that a few brands are obsessed with creating “affordable” tourbillon watches that sell for somewhere in the $20,000 to $30,000 price range. Some brands even combine the tourbillon escapement with other high complications (such as minute repeaters or perpetual calendars) to offer what the industry refers to as a grand complication. Among the watch collecting community, a tourbillon watch is among the most coveted.